Wheel Alignment

We boast one of the most up to date, state of the art 3d wheel alignment systems in the area. From simple front tracking adjustments to full on Geometry setups including Camber, Caster and Toe adjustments.

We cater for almost all vehicles big and small as well as lowered cars and custom adjustments to your own spec.

If your tyres are wearing unevenly, if your car is pulling or you have a crooked steering wheel, the chances are your car is suffering from misalignment. But you cannot always tell just by looking – so get it checked out.

Using the very latest 4-wheel alignment equipment from Hofmann we can carry out full alignment setups on virtually any vehicle and that includes lowered cars and track cars. The most up to date software ensures that 95% of vehicles on the road are covered, if not we can also do custom setups using manufacturers measurements not listed and even your own specs if desired. Get in contact with your requirements.

How often should the alignment be checked?

As a rule, it is wise to have your alignment checked every 12,000 – 15,000 miles or once a year.

However, it is also highly recommended when:

• You knowingly hit a kerb or pothole.
• New tyres are fitted.
• Steering and suspension components are replaced.
• The vehicle has been involved in any form of accident or collision.

What is four wheel alignment?

Since the car was invented it has been important that all four wheels point in the same direction! Over time as the car and its components have evolved, so has the way cars steering and suspension set up or geometry is measured.

The modern car is built for comfort, performance and handling. In order to achieve and maintain the best ride possible, the steering and suspension needs to be measured and adjusted within the motor manufacturer’s specifications. This can only be done by measuring all four wheels and having a proper full four-wheel alignment measurement.

If only the fronts are set straight, through having a Tracking, two wheel alignment, or Toe & Go, and the rear wheels remain out of alignment (and not adjusted), your car could still suffer tyre wear, pulling and crooked steering wheel.

What is the difference between tracking and four-wheel Alignment?

Tracking was born of a bygone era when cars had very little or no adjustment. Any measurement and adjustment tended to be on the front wheels, for the ‘Toe’ angle only.

Tracking on the fronts (sometimes called a ‘two-wheel alignment’) does not take in account the direction in which the rear wheels are pointing. So, if you have the fronts adjusted and set straight, if the rears are out of alignment, the car may pull, and tyres could still wear.

Four Wheel Alignment measures a minimum of 12 angles and compares them to the alignment data specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Wheel rim run-out compensation is considered, which gives accurate and repeatable readings.

With such accurate readings, Four Wheel Alignment allows toe adjustments of individual wheels which ensure the steering wheel is set straight.

Further adjustments of camber, caster and other angles (where necessary) can ensure optimum performance and savings.

Wheel Alignment Jargon Buster

TOE

Toe is the angle of the wheels in relation to the vehicle’s centreline (an imaginary line straight down the centre of the vehicle, when viewed from above).

Just as the name suggests, imagine the pair of wheels (front or back wheels) as a pair of feet.

Further adjustments of camber, caster and other angles (where necessary) can ensure optimum performance and savings. When you turn your toes inwards and your heals out, this is what is known as Toe-in. And yes, you have guessed it; when you turn your toes out and heels in, this is Toe-out.

When this happens to wheels, you end up wearing the edges of your tyres excessively:

• Toe in or Positive Toe causes your car to wear the outside edges.
• Toe out or Negative Toe your car will wear the inside edges.

INDIVIDUAL TOE

Individual toe is measured from the vehicle centre line. Individual toe can be thought of as a ‘per wheel’ value.

TOTAL TOE

Total Toe is the sum of two individual toe angle readings added together.

CAMBER

Think of Camber as the amount of ‘tilt’ of the wheel, one way or the other.

• Positive Camber is when the top of the wheel leans away from the car
• Negative Camber is when the wheel leans in at the top
  

The amount of tilt does not have to be much and not always noticeable to the eye, but it is enough to cause undue tyre wear and make the car pull

CASTER

The easiest way to understand Caster is to look at the diagram above and imagine it was a bike. If you draw a line down from the centre point on the handlebars down the forks to the ground (on a car this would be the suspension strut), this indicates the ‘pivot point’.

Then draw a second line vertical through the centre of the wheel and where this touches the ground shows the ‘tyre contact point’.

The top angle that has been created is what is known as the Caster Angle.
If this top angle is reduced then stability is less, therefore it is important to get the Caster set to its optimum angle for the best possible control.

CENTRE LINE

Is literally just that! An imaginary line running down the centre of the car, from the front to the rear and equidistant from the sides.

THRUST ANGLE

Thrust angle is the direction the rear wheels are pointing in relation to the centre line. If the thrust angle is not zero, the vehicle will ‘crab’ – move sideways from the back!

This is simply to ensure the steering wheel is set straight when the vehicle is travelling along a straight and flat road